BY HARLAN CHAPMAN-GREEN
The Panerai range is quite simple when you think about it. Nearly every watch is somehow descended from the original diving models such as the Egiziano Grosso from 1956, which included the signature locking crown Panerai watches use today. Today’s model range is split off into the Luminor, Luminor Due and Submersible, which used to be called the Luminor Submersible if my memory serves correctly. If your Panerai isn’t from one of those three model ranges, it’s probably a Radiomir which can be identified in the range by its wire lugs and distinctive lack of that patented locking crown mechanism.
PAM01319
The focus of today is the Luminor Due (pronounced doo-way for the avoidance of doubt). The Luminor Due is Panerai’s subtle dress watch, it shares the same silhouette as the standard Luminor models, but the Luminor Due models are often slightly smaller in diameter and thinner too, allowing them to slide under dress cuffs with ease. The three watches unveiled today feature 38mm diameter cases complete with Panerai’s patented locking crown mechanism. The watches are presented on stainless steel bracelets, which is quite unusual for Panerai which typically uses leather or rubber straps. The design of the bracelet links features distinctive semicircular ridges with a cutout in the middle, this not only allows one link to join to the next but also makes the bracelet more reminiscent of the locking crown which inspired its design. All three models have a closed caseback and are water resistant to 50m.
PAM01309
Panerai’s press material describes the new Luminor Due models as cosmopolitan, and I see where they’re going with that. This is the first time Panerai has used pastel colours for its dials, and all of them start quite dark at the bottom and then lighten up as you move towards the top. It does remind me of a cityscape when viewed from on high, with the shadows from the buildings disappearing as you look up further towards the sky. The pastel blue dial of PAM01309 represents this vision the most, although the pastel green of PAM01311 and powdery pink of PAM01319 also do this well. As is typical with Panerai watches, the dials are clear and without frills, but there is a date window and a small seconds hand for convenience.
PAM01311
All three watches use the self-winding P.900 which has a 4Hz beat rate and 72-hour power reserve with Incabloc shock protection.
All three watches are boutique-exclusive models and are limited to 500 examples per dial colour per year. With their compact size, they’re sure to impress all members of the audience. The price for all versions is €8,000.
