By Jovan Krstevski
Here is the comeback of both the iconic Historiques Triple Calendrier 1942 and the Triple Calendrier 1948 in one timepiece. Yes, you read it right, 2 pieces in one, the Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Complete Calendar “Excellence Platine“ watch for SIHH 2018.
Now before jumping to conclusions, this preview watch is entirely new. The case, the dial, and the way the complications are shown including the movement are all fresh. It just took the vintage inspirations of 2 model complications.
Speaking of vintage inspiration, VC has brought back a specific calendar from the 1940s and 1950s which is the Complete/Triple calendar. This complication is usually defined as having three indications of a full date: day of the week, date of the month and month. As seen in the Historiques Triple Calendar 1942 & 1948, a Complete/Triple calendar relies on a date (on the edge of the dial) indicated by a central hand while the day and month (in windows) are indicated on the upper dial which is crafted from a single plate of platinum. It has a beautiful sand-blasted finish that results to a matte look that also gets a metallic hue when lighted. Also seen on the dial is the subtle “Pt950” inscription between 4 and 5.
Unlike the original watches, the new complication positions the day and month indications at just above the 9 and 3 and adding a moon-phase indication at 6. Also worth mentioning is the modernity of the dial while remaining classic. The straight faceted indexes, the classic railroad track for the minutes and dauphine hands for the hours and minutes are all present. The central hand that indicates the date is also blued with a nice crescent tip.
The new Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Complete Calendar “Excellence Platine” features a 41mm platinum case. This rare material is also seen on the dial, on the moon disc and on the folding clasp. The “étagé” design of the case looks fresh with straight lugs, angular shapes and the traditional fluted case-back.
Powering the new watch is a new movement, a self-winding calibre 2460 beating at 4 Hz. Note that this movement also serves as a base for other VC watches: the World-Time, the Copernicus, the Overseas WT and the Harmony Triple Calendar, a testament to its quality and reliability. It’s entirely in-house and adorned with the Poinçon de Genève that can be seen through the exhibition caseback. It has 22 carats gold oscillating weight and an impressive power reserve of 40 hours. The moon-phase indication requires only a single adjustment every 122 years which we can safely say a lifetime for any of us. The lovely movement features the brand’s refined and elegant standards and can be enjoyed through the decorated caseback.
Finally, the Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Excellence Platine 4010T retails for EUR 69,000 and limited to only 100 pieces. vacheron-constantin.com
