BY HARLAN CHAPMAN-GREEN
Roger Dubuis is the maker of some of the world’s most extreme watches. Extreme in the sense of their engineering, that is. While personal taste should always factor into a purchase, you can’t deny that the work Roger Dubuis puts into designing and crafting its watches is a major selling point in its own right. Their watches have spanned several design languages over the years, from the quirky yet practical designs of the Easy Diver watches to the super sporty Lamborghini special edition watches to the abstract shapes of the Excalibur Monobalancier watches. The most intriguing watches from Roger Dubuis, in my opinion, are their Knights of the Round Table pieces, and a new one has just arrived.
These watches are based on Arthurian legend which hails from 12th century Britain and France. King Arthur established the Knights of the Round Table to ensure peace in his kingdom, and the table plays host to all members of society, from royalty to minor nobility; everyone sitting at the Round Table is equal. This new piece depicts the Knights as they encounter a mysterious new challenge in an icy tundra. Despite being statues, the figures have very dramatic poses making them seem to be alive, as if they’re waiting for the monster below the ice to reveal itself. Each knight is 6mm tall and made of 18k pink gold, and the engraving of their details is done by hand.
Blued glass surrounds the knights providing contrast, and that same blue glass is used in the centre of the dial to appear as the churning sea below the cracking ice. The ice is also blue glass, but it’s coated with Limoges porcelain to give it a glistening but slightly matte effect, contrasting the shiny glass.
There’s also a sapphire crystal piece below the bezel that goes around the case, giving you the chance to view the Knights as they prepare for battle from multiple angles. The crown also recreates these details in its own way, which is a nice touch.
Inside the watch and visible through the case back is the in-house made self-winding calibre RD821SPS; it has a 4Hz beat rate and a power reserve of 48 hours. Further, the blue rotor matches the blue detailing of the dial side of the watch, and the entire movement has been awarded the Poinçon de Genève, the Geneva Seal, which guarantees an extremely high standard of movement design, manufacturing and finishing.
The case is also an intriguing proposition. It’s 45mm in diameter and it’s gonna be thick, although Roger Dubuis hasn’t told us precisely how thick in this instance. It will be lightweight, though, as the case is made of Titanium Damascus. If you’re familiar with Damascus steel and its appearance made of many layers which have fused together, then this will be pleasingly familiar.
The watch is presented on a calfskin leather strap that’s coloured blue to match the dial’s details, and a quick-release system is in place, allowing you to swap in another strap (though it’ll need to be one that fits Roger Dubuis’ unique lugs. This watch, with the reference RDDBEX1058, was limited to 28 boutique-exclusive pieces, and the price before tax was CHF300,000. I wrote that in the past tense as Roger Dubuis’ website indicates they’ve all now sold out. Luckily, the Knights of the Round Table watches have been around for years, so if you’re desperate for one you should still be able to find one (or maybe Roger Dubuis can make you a special one?). Given that the press embargo lifted three days ago, the buyers either had prior knowledge of this piece or were as impressed as we were, although unlike us they can then buy one. Either way, the fact they sold so quickly is a good sign.
