The Vacheron Constantin Malte Tourbillon takes a slightly different approach to one key factor in a watch. The case isn’t actually round like that of the H. Moser & Cie Venturer Tourbillon Dual Time watch. The case is actually a soft cornered tonneau shape which is a good shape if you happen to have smaller wrists. Often a larger sized watch with a round case on a smaller wrist can come off looking a little like you are wearing a dinner plate, the unique shape of the Malte Tourbillon watch gets past this because the lugs reach the edges of your arm and, therefore, look perfectly proportioned. The downside is that a very large wrist will find it too small to wear and this particular case shape is quite rare in larger sizes. The dimensions of this watch are 38mm at the widest point (excl. crown) and 48.24mm from top to bottom, that puts it near to the dimensions of the JLC Reverso Duo, bearing in mind the tapering case, and the added thickness of the Malte thanks to the tourbillon.
At the moment, you might be thinking that the Moser has the Malte on the ropes begging for mercy. Vacheron Constantin has yet to play its trump card, you see they didn’t just make it into the holy trinity of watchmakers for their gorgeous designs. The movement in the Vacheron Constantin Malte Tourbillon was made in house in Geneva. As with most other modern Vacheron Constantin watch movements the movement in this one has been awarded the highest honour in watchmaking, the Seal of Geneva. This means that the watch has been made in accordance with the highest of standards and is the best that it can possibly be. The hand wound VC Caliber 2795 is shaped like the case of the watch is as opposed to being a simple rectangle which shows the extra thought put into it. Also, there’s 169 parts in it altogether and the watch will run for around 45 hours before needing a rewind.
Like the Moser, the Malte Tourbillon is offered in a range of metals, all presented on a leather strap. This watch has two options, either 950 platinum or 18K rose gold with the platinum having a more silvery dial and blue leather strap while the gold has a creamy dial and brown strap. The Moser comes in white or rose gold, but they have 3 choices of dial colour.
Both of these watches have a unique twist to them, the Moser is modulated so it can be assembled more easily while the Geneva Seal means that the Vacheron Constantin is made to a higher standard. Does the second time zone on the Moser mean it takes the crown or does the elegance of the tonneau shape keep the crown just out of grasp?
The winner of this month’s edition is the Vacheron Constantin Malte Tourbillon. Simple, elegant, sophisticated and well built. All things the Venturer Tourbillon Dual Time does extremely well, without a doubt. But the VC just does it that bit better. H. Moser & Cie is a brand to keep an eye on, though, we’ll definitely be hearing about them more when they really get innovating hard, which we know they will.
For more info, please visit vacheron-constantin.com & h-moser.com
Stay tuned, there’s a lot more watches out there just waiting to compete.
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HARLAN CHAPMAN-GREEN – CONTRIBUTING EDITOR
A keen bass guitar player, Harlan enjoys all the perks modern watchmaking technologies the industry has to offer. Although you might catch him sampling Omegas or the Rolex, Harlan loves all things Haute Horology, with his three favourite brands being Breguet, A.Lange & Söhne and Vacheron Constantin. He hopes to study timekeeping more in depth someday and will never be able to thank his father enough for introducing him to the industry. Read his articles here.
