BY SAM DELAWARE
In 2019, Glashütte Original launched the “Spezialist” collection, introducing two heritage-inspired divers: the 43.2mm SeaQ Panorama Date and the 39.5mm SeaQ Date. While both are popular, the smaller 39.5mm model lacked the sapphire case back of the 43.2mm, concealing the beautifully finished caliber 39-11 with a solid steel case back. Now, five years later, Glashütte Original has updated the SeaQ in response to customer demand.
Glashütte Original seemed well attuned to the overall positive response of the 2019 release and have kept everything about the previous 39.5mm SeaQ intact from the highly wearable size all the way down to the case finishes and caliber.
The SeaQ Date employs a stainless steel case maintaining 200m of water resistance in spec with DIN 8306 and ISO 6425 despite the addition of a sapphire case back. The SeaQ also rolls over the unidirectional timing bezel with a durable ceramic insert color matched to the dial background which comes in three different color variations of blue, green, and black.
The approach of the 2019 and 2024 SeaQ 39.5mm divers both speak the distinct language of the 1960s. After all, the entire Spezialist line was aimed at reviving Glashütte Original’s iconic Spezimatic RP TS 200 diver c.1969.
From the subtle sunburst texture of the blue dial to the varnish textured reed-green and the presence of bright Swiss Super-LumiNova, Glashütte Original has made the necessary modern updates to keep the dive watch relevant and rooted in the present despite its vintage sensibilities. By doing so, the new 39.5mm SeaQ Date maintains incredible versatility.
Though understandable for a utilitarian diver to come equipped with a stainless steel case back, 2019’s SeaQ hid the intricately finished manufacture caliber 39-11. 2024’s update now allows for a full view of the self-winding mechanical movement complete with Glashütte Original’s three-quarter plate with a stripe finish, a swan-neck fine adjustment, bevelled edges across the visible steel components, and a skeletonised rotor with Glashütte Original’s double-G symbol.
The calibre 39-11 beats at a frequency of 4hz and also offers a solid 40 hours of power on a full wind. Though the movement and its finishes are now visible behind sapphire, the 39-11 is a complete roll over from 2019.
Each SeaQ 39.5mm Date with a sapphire case back is available with your choice of 20mm strap/bracelet – a brushed three link stainless steel bracelet, a black rubber tropic-style dive strap, or a synthetic textile strap color matched to the dial.
Glashütte Original is launching the SeaQ 39.5mm Date with a sapphire case back for $10,600 USD. Existing 39.5mm SeaQ models can be retrofitted with a sapphire case back for approximately €300, plus shipping, with work handled by Glashütte in Germany starting January 2025.