BY HARLAN CHAPMAN-GREEN
Recently, Panerai quietly introduced four new models to their range inspired by their work with the USA’s most elite combat units, in this case, it’s their Navy SEALs. The Navy SEALs are highly regarded for their abilities and, in a way, their durability, so it makes perfect sense for a company like Panerai to market their watches as such. Do you remember when Jaeger-LeCoultre used to do this? They’re just not the same these days, are they? Oh well.
The new collection from Panerai is broken into four models which all appear to be broadly the same. For example, all the watches have a similar dial, which fades from black to grey the further you get to the centre, and they also all have a rubber/fabric strap with a “digital camouflage” pattern, which looks interesting. They all have a special engraved caseback with the Navy SEALs insignia, which is cool. Also, all of these are boutique-exclusive models, so you won’t find them in any old Panerai dealer, only the branded boutiques.
The first model is PAM01518 which has a 44mm brushed stainless steel case with 300m of water resistance. This one’s clear and simple, but it still has details to admire such as the small seconds hand a 9 O’clock which appears to have crosshairs as a backdrop. Fitting, really, and another detail that’s fitting here is the lack of a date window. Inside this watch is the self-winding P.900, which has a 4Hz beat rate, a 3-day power reserve and, most importantly, Incabloc shock protection for the movement. The price of this model is $10,200 before tax.
The next model is a classic Panerai model through and through; it’s the PAM01669, a 47mm 300m diving watch made from titanium with a Carbotech bezel. These bigger watches from Panerai wear comfortably despite their size; I can attest to that, having sampled many over my time, although I don’t own one and I haven’t tried this specific model out. The extra space afforded to this model means the date window doesn’t intrude into the dial, which itself has got to be about the most legible a watch’s dial can be. Inside this model is the automatically-wound calibre P.9010 which is made in-house by Panerai at their manufacture in Neuchâtel, Switzerland. It has a 3-day power reserve and 4Hz beat rate. Before sales tax, this model costs $13,700.
The third watch is the PAM01513, officially called the Submersible QuarantaQuattro GMT Navy SEALs Carbotech. As that’s quite the mouthful, we’ll stick with the reference number. Anyway, this model is a 44mm one hence the name QuarantaQuattro (the PAM01518 was also a QuarantaQuattro model, by the way). This one’s almost entirely made out of Carbotech, which is Panerai’s carbon case made up of layers of carbon fibre sandwiched together and bonded into one through heat and pressure, which forms the random striations on the bezel and case. As well as being a diving watch, this one’s also a GMT as demonstrated by the huge orange-tipped GMT hand. The water resistance of this one is 300m, and inside it is the self-winding calibre P.900/GMT which is the same as in the PAM01518 with the added GMT function. That means the power reserve is around three days, and it runs at 4Hz. Because of that extra function and the Carbotech case, the price of this model before taxes is $19,700.
The final model is the enormous Submersible Chrono Navy SEALs Titanio, which measures 47mm but if it’s anything like Panerai’s other 47mm chronographs it will wear more like a 49mm or even a 50mm watch. The DLC-coated titanium case is responsible for that, partly, as it’s also very thick as well as wide; but it is 500m water resistant rather than the 300m we’ve been seeing. The extra functions in this watch come courtesy of the calibre P.9100/R which is another in-house movement from Panerai. It features a column wheel chronograph with a vertical clutch for precise setting; it also has a flyback function, which means it has all the best parts of a chronograph you could want. It also has the countdown “time to target” function as it’s written on the dial, although in reality, this is Panerai’s regatta chronograph but named slightly differently. Nevertheless, you shouldn’t underestimate the extra engineering that went into it. The pusher just below the iconic crown guard controls the countdown function by setting the minute hand to a position; once the desired position is reached, the chronograph is started using the normal pusher. Once the countdown is complete the watch begins timing as a traditional chronograph would. This extra complexity means this model is the most expensive at $34,200 pre-tax. Panerai’s website also shows it as a limited edition watch, although it doesn’t appear to tell me how limited it is, which is helpful.
So, there you have it—four of Panerai’s novelties that don’t seem to be getting much press coverage at the moment. Which is your favourite? For me, it’s got to be the 47mm diver, the PAM1669. If only Panerai knew how close I’ve come to buying the older versions of that from the dealer in the past.
