By Harlan Chapman-Green

It’s the end. The end of Baselworld that is. Some may be saddened by this, but my father always says that all good things must end so the next good thing can begin and it’s the same here. We all know that next year both SIHH and Baselworld will return, but just before Baselworld 2015 ends I’m going to show you to wondrous Tudor watches.

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The first is an updated Pelagos model. It’s been around for a little while so they decided to update it. The update that excites me most is the use of an in-house manufactured calibre. That’s right, beforehand Tudor used off the shelf ETA calibres, but now they bring their own line. This one has a Tudor MT5612 movement in it which simply powers the seconds, minutes, hours hands and a date window. This movement is an automatic COSC rated chronometer movement and has a 70 hour power reserve.

TUDOR PELAGOS (With New In-House Movement) MANUFACTURE TUDOR MT5612 MOVEMENT

Technical details
Movement
Calibre MT5612, Manufacture TUDOR
Self-winding mechanical movement with bidirectional rotor system
Precision Swiss Chronometer Officially Certified by the COSC
(Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute)
Oscillator Variable inertia balance, micro-adjustment by screw
Non-magnetic silicon balance spring
Frequency: 28,800beats/hour (4Hz)
Total diameter 31.8mm
Thickness 6.5mm
Jewels 26rubis
Power reserve: Approximately 70hours

Functions
Centre hour, minute and seconds hands
Instantaneous date with rapid setting without non-correction range
Stop-seconds for precise time setting

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This watch comes in either black or a lovely sea blue, a similar colour to the blue Rolex uses on its Submariner watches. That’s not really a surprise to be honest, given that Rolex owns Tudor. Also like the Submariner, the Pelagos is a diving watch and as such is water-resistant to 500m down. Also to help you when diving you can choose either a rubber strap in the colour of the dial, or there’s a lovely big chunky bracelet instead if that’s more your thing.

TUDOR PELAGOS – REFERENCE 25600TB

TUDOR PELAGOS (With New In-House Movement) 5

Case
Monobloc middle case, screw-down case back and winding crown, helium escape valve at 9o’clock
Diameter: 42mm
Material: Titanium, satin finish, case back in 316L stainless steel
Bezel: Titanium, unidirectional rotatable bezel graduated over 60minutes with ceramic matt blue disc and graduations with white luminescent material
Winding crown: Screw-down, triple waterproofness system
Crystal: Scratch-resistant and anti-reflective
Water-proofness: 500metres (1,640feet)

Bracelets
Material Titanium, satin finish
Clasp Folding clasp and safety catch in 316L stainless steel with extension system developed and patented by TUDOR
The comfort adjustment system allows a maximum extension of 4mm in increments of 2mm, the diving adjustment system allows an additional extension of 14mm and an unfolding diving mechanism providing an additional extension of 25mm
Additional strap Blue rubber with titanium buckle, supplied with watch

Dial
Colour: Blue, matt finish
Hour markers: White hour markers with white luminescent material,  blue flange with white minute markers
Hands: White hour, minute and second hands with white luminescent material

TUDOR PELAGOS – REFERENCE 25600TN

TUDOR PELAGOS (With New In-House Movement) 4

Case
Monobloc middle case, screw-down case back and winding crown, helium escape valve at 9o’clock
Diameter: 42mm
Material: Titanium, satin finish, case back in 316L stainless steel
Bezel: Titanium, unidirectional rotatable bezel graduated over 60minutes with ceramic matt black disc and graduations with white luminescent material
Winding crown: Screw-down, triple water-proofness system
Crystal: Scratch-resistant and anti-reflective
Water-proofness: 500metres (1,640feet)

Bracelets
Material: Titanium, satin finish
Clasp: Folding clasp and safety catch in 316L stainless steel with extension system developed and patented by TUDOR
The comfort adjustment system allows a maximum extension of 4mm in increments of 2mm, the diving adjustment system allows an additional extension of 14mm and an unfolding diving mechanism providing an additional extension of 25mm
Additional strap: Black rubber with titanium buckle, supplied with watch

Dial
Colour: Black, matt finish
Hour markers: White hour markers with white luminescent material, black flange with white minute markers
Hands: White hour, minute and second hands with white luminescent material

 

The Pelagos is a great diving tool watch with big lume coated markers and huge chunky lume hands as well which will undoubtedly be very useful to deep divers. But the Pelagos isn’t where we end today. There’s another Tudor to look at as well.

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It’s called the North Flag and like the Pelagos it has a totally in-house movement. The letters ETA don’t apply here.

Tudor North Flag movement

It uses a Tudor MT5621 COSC chronometer movement, which like the MT5612 is made completely within the walls of the Tudor plant. It’s got an up/down power reserve indicator at 9 O’clock in a fluorescent yellow colour. At 3 O’clock there’s a date window. Turning the piece over we can see the new movement is on display to the world. While the movement itself has a lot of pedigree to uphold (and it’s certainly capable of doing it) I feel that it looks a little ugly. But a workhorse type movement that this will become isn’t supposed to look charming to everyone and no doubt some will love it. To help strengthen the roots this movement will need it’s also got a hacking seconds complication in it. Meaning that when you pull out the crown all the way the seconds hand will stop moving for more precise time setting.

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Technical details
Tudor North Flag
Reference:  91210N

Case
Monobloc middle case, open back with sapphire crystal and screw-down winding crown
Diameter 40mm
316Lstainless steel, satin finish
Bezel: Double bezel in steel and matt black ceramic
Winding crown: Screw-down, double water-proofness system
Crystal: Scratch-resistant sapphire
Water-proofness: 100metres (330feet)

Movement
Calibre MT5621, Manufacture TUDOR
Self-winding mechanical movement with bidirectional rotor system
Swiss Chronometer Officially Certified by the COSC (Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute)
Total diameter 33.8mm
Thickness 6.5mm
Jewels 28jewels
Power reserve Approximately 70 hours

Oscillator
Variable inertia balance, micro-adjustment by screw
Non-magnetic silicon balance spring
Frequency: 28,800beats/hour (4Hz)

Functions
Centre hour, minute and seconds hands
Instantaneous date with rapid setting without non-correction range
Stop-seconds for precise time setting
Power reserve indicator via disc

Dial
Colour Black, matt finish
Hour markers White hour markers with white luminescent material, black flange with minute markers and yellow marking for the 5-minute intervals
Hands: White hour and minute hands with white luminescent material, yellow direct-drive second hand and black power reserve disc with white painted hand

Bracelet
Material 316Lstainless steel, satin finish
Clasp: Folding clasp and safety catch

Strap
Material Black leather with yellow stitching and yellow leather lining
Clasp: Folding clasp and safety catch

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This watch is styled a little like the Heritage Ranger watch which, apart from the Chrono Blue, is my favourite Tudor watch. I think it’s fair to say they’ve been joined by the new North Flag. Its integrated lugs look back to the Rolex Oyster Quartz, a similar time that Tudor was making what were essentially Rolexes with a smaller price tag.

Which one am I looking forward to most? The North Flag. The looks of it are gorgeously understated and blend well with pretty much any attire. Tudor, i salute you.

For more info, please visit tudorwatch.com

bio

Harlan Chapman-Green – Contributing Editor

First introduced to horology with the Patek Philippe Calibre 89 by his father few years ago, Harlan enjoys his passion for fine horology. He prefers to spend his time in the boutiques of upmarket brands, trying out new pieces constantly. His preferred 3 brands are A. Lange & Söhne, Breguet and Vacheron Constantin. Although not much for the smaller brands, he still finds the complications intriguing and wishes to own one watch from each of his three favourites. Read his articles here.