BY JOVAN K
Grand Seiko is marking 25 years of its hand-wound 9S mechanical movement with the new Elegance Collection SBGW325, a limited edition that goes back to one of the more unusual watches from the brand’s early modern era. Released in 2001, the SBGW003 introduced Grand Seiko’s first manually wound 9S movement, the Caliber 9S54, and stood out with a dial unlike the usual Grand Seiko designs. For the SBGW325, that same idea returns with a modern 9S64 movement, a deep blue dial and the distinctive raised Arabic numerals.
The stainless steel case follows the same basic design as the SBGW003, with a rounded profile and relatively short proportions that give it a very different presence from Grand Seiko’s larger contemporary models. Measuring 37.3mm x 11.7mm, and 44.3mm lug to lug, it should sit comfortably on the wrist without losing the formal character of the Elegance Collection.
Grand Seiko has given the case its familiar Zaratsu polishing, with distortion-free mirror surfaces contrasting against the more restrained finishing. The lugs are particularly interesting, with sloping surfaces that widen toward their ends and create defined ridgelines around the polished sections. A domed box-shaped sapphire crystal sits above the dial, with an anti-reflective coating applied to the inside. Six screws secure the sapphire display caseback, which carries the “LIMITED EDITION” inscription and individual serial number. Water resistance is rated at 30 meters, while magnetic resistance is also provided.
This is where the SBGW325 really separates itself from most of the current Grand Seiko lineup. The original SBGW003 used a cream dial with raised gold Arabic numerals and blued hands. For the new model, Grand Seiko keeps the unusual numeral layout but completely changes the color combination.
A matte deep navy dial takes inspiration from Japan’s traditional indigo-dyeing culture, while the raised silver Arabic numerals give the surface a strong three-dimensional effect. The contrast is particularly effective because the dial itself is relatively restrained. There is no date window or additional complication, leaving the numerals, handset, and Grand Seiko logo to define the design.
Adding another small detail, the GS logo and seconds hand are gilded, giving the otherwise cool blue and silver combination a warmer accent.
Inside is Caliber 9S64, the latest manually wound movement in the same 9S family that began with the 9S54 in 2001. The architecture remains closely related to the original, but the newer movement brings a substantial improvement in power reserve.
Operating at 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz), the 9S64 provides 72 hours of power reserve. That is 50 percent more than the 50-hour reserve of the original 9S54, making the SBGW325 considerably more practical for a modern three-day cycle. It has 24 jewels, a hacking function, and a stated mean daily rate of +5 to -3 seconds per day under Grand Seiko’s testing conditions, with normal usage accuracy specified at +10 to -1 seconds per day.
The strap continues the indigo theme with a blue crocodile strap dyed using the traditional hon-ai natural indigo technique. Grand Seiko says the strap is hand-dyed by craftsmen through a lengthy process to achieve its deep navy color, matching the tone of the dial.
An additional grey calfskin strap is included, featuring a grained texture and a softer, more casual character. The watch uses a 19mm lug width and weighs just 61 grams. Limited to 600 pieces worldwide, the SBGW325 is scheduled to arrive at Grand Seiko boutiques in October 2026. The watch is priced at USD$5,800/EUR€5,700/JPY¥803,000.
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