By Jonathan Kopp
As we approach the Only Watch 2015 auction I’d like to present you today one my favourite timepieces of the list.
H. Moser & Cie. was created by Heinrich Moser in 1828. Based in Neuhausen am Rheinfall, it currently employs 50 people, has eight of its own calibers and produces 1,000 watches per year. H. Moser & Cie. manufactures parts such as regulating organs and balance-springs, which are used for its own products as well as to supply its partner companies. Moser & Cie. has a member of the Moser family with the company as honorary chairman of the board and president of the Heinrich and Henri Moser Foundation.
The aim of the Moser Foundation, created by one of Heinrich Moser’s descendants, is to keep the family history alive and seek out antique pieces for the Moser Museum, located in Charlottenfels Manor, Heinrich Moser’s family home. MELB Holding is an independent family group based in the heart of the legendary Vallée de Joux. With the aim of promoting watchmaking savoir-faire and proven expertise in the field. MELB Holding holds shares in the companies H. Moser & Cie. and Hautlence.
Now let’s have a look at the timepiece itself. H. Moser & Cie has created a delightful, unique watch for the Only Watch 2015 charity auction, to help raise money to benefit research for Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy. The bespoke Endeavour Perpetual Calendar for Only Watch has a 40.8mm case made of titanium with DLC finish.
To contrast the sunburst fumé dial, the small second hand at 6 O’clock is accented in red. Not forgetting details such as the date disc which has been hand-written by the children of Moser’s employees.
Its black hand-stitched alligator strap is lined in red leather to match.
What I really like is the contrast of the colours. The case is made of polished titanium, that gives the watch a glossy black finish with the DLC coating. Durable, lightweight and hypoallergenic, the polished titanium accents of the sleek contemporary design of this piece gives it a timeless design.
The red seconds hand goes perfectly with the interior of the strap which is also red. These two colours give to the watch a quite sporty aspect even if it’s not actually a sports watch.
Synonymous of sobriety and watchmaking excellence, the timepieces created by H. Moser & Cie contain highly technical movements.
Under the curved sapphire caseback, we find the very well finished calibre HMC 341, with its Moser ribs, the hand chamfered and polished bridges, the large screwed gold chatons, the Moser interchangeable escapement and the jumping leap year wheel.
The HMC 341 movement has a 7-days power reserve. In addition, the Moser interchangeable escapement has been fitted with an Original Straumann Double-Hairspring®, a very rare feature in honour of this exceptional charity event. The Straumann Double Hairspring comprises of two identical balance springs fitted over one another, each moving inversely to the other. Found only on limited or special edition Moser timepieces, the Double Hairspring improves timekeeping by improving the concentricity of the hairsprings’ motion.
As a perpetual calendar, the watch seems simple in terms of its design. Many watch connoisseurs probably think that the watch only features a date, sub-seconds and power reserve indication when they see the watch for the first time. With a small, arrow style hand in the centre of the watch, H.Moser & Cie takes advantage of the fact that the twelve hours displayed on the dial happens to be the same amount as the number of months in a year. The leap year indication, the key feature that sets a the perpetual calendar apart from the annual calendar, is located on the movement side of the watch. A smart move, since a perpetual calendar, always displays the correct date and the leap year indicator is only truly needed when setting the watch.
As classic as their watches may seem, H.Moser & Cie likes to innovate when it comes to their movements.
For more info, please visit h-moser.com
Jonathan Kopp – Contributing Writer
Jonathan Kopp has an avid enthusiasm for timepieces of all genre, from vintage timepieces to modern Luxury Haute Horology. His preference goes to small and independent high-end watchmakers. He loves the difference rather than classicism, although if he admits to being in love with several ultra-classics pieces. Jonathan was caught by the passion for watchmaking there are almost 6 years. For about 5 years, he wanders in this industry and was Communication-Marketing-PR Consultant for several brands. He has worked for over 2 years as a freelance for the development of the Swiss brand Arthur Oskar Stampfli (AOSWatches). Read his articles here.