BY SAM DELAWARE
Amid the radical shifts in watchmaking during the 1960s (a period that would eventually lead to the Quartz Crisis) Longines took a bold stand against the rising tide of battery-powered timepieces. In 1966, the brand introduced the Ultra-Chron, a remarkable achievement in fully mechanical watchmaking. With its high-frequency movement beating at 5Hz (36,000 vibrations per hour), the Ultra-Chron made a clear statement: precision and mechanical craftsmanship could still thrive in an era increasingly dominated by quartz technology.
Longines officially reintroduced the Ultra-Chron in 2022 bringing back a version wholly geared toward diving with a full steel build, 300m of water resistance, and a fully adjustable timing bezel. This carbon fiber take is a stark deviation away from the previous release, certainly aimed at staying competitive with other watchmakers experimenting with high performance materials.Â
Though the use of carbon fiber is a relatively new approach in terms of material construction for the brand, the fusion of modern materials with vintage-inspired characteristics is something Longines is certainly no stranger to.
The Ultra-Chron features a 43mm case crafted from raw, layered carbon fiber composite, creating a striking sense of depth despite its matte finish. The fixed titanium bezel, aluminum insert, and crown complement the case with a cohesive satin finish, all rendered in varying shades of gray and black as well.
Though the significant 43mm diameter and 51mm lug-to-lug measurements will cause some discontent, the fully blacked-out nature of the case should mitigate some of the size on the wrist. Controversial too will be the decision to pair 300m of water resistance with a completely fixed bezel, one that houses an insert void of any lume.
Under a domed sapphire crystal, the dial houses gray PVD coated baton hands and markers, a stark, matte black dial, pops of lume that radiate aqua blue in low light, and of course the infamous Longines winged hourglass just below the 12.
Notable too is the smooth sweep of the seconds, made possible by the high-beat L836.6 automatic movement Longines employs as the engine. The L836.6 is essentially ETA’s A31.L11 movement, AKA a variant of the ETA 2892-A2 base – though this caliber has been tuned to achieve a higher beat rate of 36,000 VpH (5Hz).
The L836.6 caliber is chronometer-certified, as specified on the titanium caseback, although it is not specifically METAS chronometer certified. Longines maintains its collaboration with TIMELAB to ensure this specific designation of accuracy.
Paired to complement the main case and continue the overall monochromatic approach, Longines has outfitted the carbon fiber Ultra-Chron with a fully blacked-out 22mm fabric strap that builds in a soft leather backing for comfortability. This strap also features case-matched titanium pin buckle hardware to secure the watch firmly to the wrist.
Heading into 2025, the Ultra-Chron is an exciting omen for other exciting releases from Longines. Available now through authorized dealers, the Longines Ultra-Chron carries a price of $4,900 USD.Â
