BY HARLAN CHAPMAN-GREEN
Watches & Wonders may be heading into the realms of the history books, but it takes with it some of the best new watches that you can (probably) buy. This year, it felt like everyone brought something to the table, whether it was evolution or revolution. Here’s the list of our favourites.
10 – Hublot Big Bang Integrated Time Only Titanium ref. 457.NX.1270.NX
Hublot’s Big Bang Integrated Time Only watches came as quite a surprise to us. The Big Bang watches are usually large, chunky, and flashy, but these ones were subtle even in 18k gold. At 38mm, I think one of these could make an interesting alternative to a Rolex DateJust or a Cartier Santos, although the asking price limits it from going further up the list. It does look modern and classy, though.
READ MORE HERE
9 – Panerai Submersible Quarantaquattro Luna Rossa Ti-Ceramitech PAM01466
Panerai’s Submersible is a serious diving watch, so it makes sense that it has a serious look to it. At 44mm across, this blue-dialled diver comes with Panerai’s 500m water-resistant Ti-Ceramitech case, which uses plasma technology to give the titanium alloy case a hard ceramic coating, ten times as fracture-resistant as regular ceramic. However, it feels a bit weird to touch, not quite rough or smooth, that’s at least what I felt.
8 – TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph ref. CBS2216.BA0041
TAG Heuer’s Carrera Chronograph has been revitalised over the past few years, and people absolutely love it. I’ve seen loads of positive comments on our articles, all talking about the Carrera, especially these vintage-style ones with glassbox crystals and virtually no bezel. The model I’ve chosen slips right in there looking new and familiar at the same time, and it really wears its size well.
7 – Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph ref. 03.9500.3600/01.I001
The Defy Skyline Chronograph is a watch that left a lasting impression. The addition of a chronograph to the original Skyline three-hander brought a new level of balance and elegance. The impressive finishing on the case and bracelet, coupled with the El Primero calibre 3600, make this watch a standout. I opted for the silver-toned dial version, but the black one was equally appealing.
6 – Cartier Santos Dual Time ref. WSSA0076
At the sixth position on our list is the Santos Dual Time, a surprising new entry from Cartier. The Santos is probably Cartier’s most popular line but they’re surprisingly hesitant when it comes to equipping it with complications. It seems as if the excellent design makes it difficult to add things without also adding imbalance. Luckily, the second timezone subdial slips right in here and makes the Santos stand out, now we just need a two-tone one.
5 – Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon
The world’s thinnest tourbillon watch, eh? Yep, and it’s not even close. At 2mm thick, Piaget’s Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon is nearly twice as thin as the next thinnest tourbillon piece (from Bulgari). It’s got a 40-hour power reserve and is wound via a special tool. It’s also visually striking from all angles, especially the back which, thanks to clever design, has an opening under the tourbillon. This watch shouldn’t go any higher on the list, it’s still thin and delicate and extremely expensive, but it’s worth mentioning.
4 – Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 ref. 01 400 7790 4135-07 8 23 02PEB
You might think that last year’s Muppet-themed frenzy would be hard to follow up on, but a brand new Aquis (Oris’ signature diving piece) ensures that’s not the case. Oris says they’ve worked hard to increase the level of quality and feeling on this new Aquis and it does show, it feels solid and smooth like one would expect from a pricier piece. It also has their in-house Calibre 400 movement inside, but it still looks familiar in all its colours. In the infamous words of Roger Daltry: “Meet the new boss, same as the old boss”.
3 – IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar ref. IW505701
IWC’s Portugieser Eternal Calendar apparently needs to be adjusted only once every 45 million years, but they say we might just have to take their word on that. While it’s mightily impressive that they performed trillions of calculations to make the most accurate calendar watch possible, it’s also mightily impressive that they were able to make it fit the wrist of a mere mortal such as myself and it happens to look really good.
2 – Rolex GMT-Master II ref. 126710GRNR
I know what you’re thinking, “Oh, it’s aNoThEr RoLeX sHoW mE sOmE rEaL iNnOvAtIoN”, but look, you shouldn’t devalue the work people have put into the new colours, and you gotta give the people what they want. It’s not for every horology enthusiast, but neither is Rolex, they’re the world’s biggest luxury watchmaker full stop, so they need to cater to all tastes and, as I’m sure you’ve noticed, grey is en vogue. I like grey, too, except when it’s in cloud form, which it often is here in the UK.
Honourable mentions:
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph ref. 5520V/210R-B966
Vacheron Constantin’s Overseas Chronograph in solid 18k gold is a real stunner, isn’t it? You’re not buying one of these because it’s the most affordable watch or because it’s the best, most advanced, and most accurate chronograph ever made; you’re buying one of these because Vacheron Constantin’s Overseas Chronograph speaks to you in ways other watches don’t. There might be better choices out there, but I respect this one.
READ MORE HERE
Jaeger-LeCoultre Duomètre Chronograph ref. Q622252J
The Duomètre from Jaeger-LeCoultre is arguably one of the most impressive watchmaking feats on this list. I’ve said it before, but there is a reason that Jaeger-LeCoultre is still known as “the watchmaker’s watchmaker” despite most brands it supplied making their own movements. The variations of the Duomètre impressed me greatly at Watches & Wonders, especially this chronograph piece. I would’ve mentioned the tourbillon if Piaget’s entry didn’t exist.
Parmigiani Fleurier Toric ref. PFC940-2010001-300181-EN
The Toric from Parmigiani Fleurier has always looked a little odd in my eyes, until now. It must only be my eyes, though, as King Charles III himself wears a Toric. I’ll bet he’ll like this new one, which has been thoroughly re-designed and is one of the best watches they make right now. Available in 18k rose gold, platinum or in 18k rose gold with a 5Hz rattrapante chronograph movement, this new Toric line is pricey but is sure to be a hit with fans of the brand.
1 – Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon Silver
I was asked many times at Watches & Wonders which piece was my favourite and the piece that kept cropping up for me was one we haven’t written about here on WristReview. Laurent Ferrier’s Classic Moon Silver, in my opinion, is as perfect to the idea of the “perfect complex dress watch” as we got at the show this year. The moonphase, along with the calendar indications, just stands out in all the right ways and, as usual, the finishing on the hand-wound calibre LF126.02 is unbelievable. It’s not something I’ll ever be able to afford or justify, but I’m glad someone spent the time necessary to make it, and I’m glad it exists.
Those were some of the many favourites we saw at the show this year, which ones were your favourites? Let us know in the comments!
